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UNVERIFIED. This module is drawn and checked in Copper Bottom - the copper agrees with the netlist below, and the checks come back clean. It is the Utility LFO from the stripboard shelf, drawn fresh for a bipolar supply rather than carried over: that board swings everything around a half rail, and on ±12 V every one of those references is ground. Neither board is built. The rack block has not been built. Every number on this page is a datasheet number, not a measurement. Build it once, fix whatever fought back, and this banner comes off.

LFO Rack

Three waves, three jacks, one knob · A TL074 on twenty strips · 8 HP · By Onion Madder · Mess O' Pedals

The Utility LFO on the stripboard shelf makes a triangle, a square and a sine from one TL074 around a half rail, because a 9 V box has no negative voltage to swing into. A rack has a real ±12 V, so this is the same four op-amps with every reference on ground and every wave landing at about ±5 V, each on a jack of its own. Rate, a range toggle, an LED. Eight HP, and nothing on it you have to explain.

The LFO Rack layout drawn as a stripboard diagram, titled LFO Rack, 23 by 20 stripboard. Twenty orange copper strips run left to right, lettered a to t, with twenty-three numbered columns above them. The top seven strips are cut at column 5, leaving a short free segment at the left of each; the power header H1 to H10 sits in two columns at their right end, with two diodes D1 and D2 and four capacitors beside it. A pale rectangle marked IC1 TL074 spans strips h to n in the middle, with a column of gray cut marks beneath it. Outlined resistors R1 to R15 stand between the strips or lie along them, two diodes D4 and D5 stand side by side left of the chip, and eleven dark blue link wires run between strips. The five bottom strips are cut at column 9. Pads leaving the board are labeled in the margins: SINE J, TRI, RANGE C, TRI J and RATE W on the left, and the header, SQ, SQ J, LED K, GND P and LED A on the right. Beside the board the panel parts are drawn with a wire to every hole: a potentiometer, an SPST toggle, three 3.5 mm jacks and a red LED. Below it the same board is drawn a second time from the solder side, mirrored, with the column numbers running right to left, every solder point as a dark dot, the cuts as X marks and the chip as a dashed outline with pin 1 boxed. A parts list follows, then a block headed OFF THE BOARD listing each panel part, what it does and where each of its legs goes.
The board as the layout file draws it: the power block top right, the chip in the middle, the extension strips below it, every part, link, cut and off-board pad in one picture, and the panel parts beside it with a wire to every hole they land in. The file itself is below. The lower drawing is the solder side, mirrored - the side you actually work on.

What you'll need

tap to expand / collapse

On the board, counted from the layout file:

  • 1× TL074 (IC1)
  • 2× 100k (brown-black-yellow; R5, R13)
  • 1× 10k (brown-black-orange; R11)
  • 4× 1k (brown-black-red; R6, R8 to R9, R15)
  • 1× 22k (red-red-orange; R10)
  • 3× 47k (yellow-violet-orange; R1 to R2, R14)
  • 1× 68k (read the bands; R12)
  • 2× 100n ceramic disc (104; C7 to C8)
  • 1× 1u box film (105, or a small film cap; C1)
  • 2× 10u electrolytic (C5 to C6) - spot it: the stripe marks the negative leg
  • 1× 10u NP electrolytic (C4) - spot it: the stripe marks the negative leg
  • 3× 1N4148 signal diode - spot it: a tiny glass body, black band toward the cathode (D3 to D5)
  • 2× 1N5817 Schottky, the reverse-polarity diode - spot it: a fat black body, band toward the cathode (D1 to D2)
  • 12 wire links (J1, J1b to J11) - solid core, tinned
  • 1× 2×5 pin header, plain, 0.1″ - the Eurorack power connector. spot it: ten square pins in two rows. Not the shrouded kind; a shroud is 20 mm long and would cover the neighboring strips
  • Stripboard, 20 strips × 23 holes or larger

Off the board

  • 1× B1M 9 mm Alpha pot, the RATE knob, wired as a variable resistor: lug 3 to SQ, wiper to RATE_W, lug 1 empty. The 47K floor it needs is on the board
  • 1× sub-mini SPST toggle, RANGE, between TRI and RANGE_C: closed, C4 sits across C1 and everything is ten times slower
  • 3× Thonkiconn PJ398SM 3.5 mm jacks: triangle, sine and square out. Every sleeve to GND_P
  • 1× 5 mm LED, the rate light, long leg to LED_A. Its resistor and the diode that protects it on the negative half are both on the board
  • 1× 8 HP Eurorack blank panel, one knob, and a Eurorack power cable

What it is

Op-amp B integrates and op-amp C compares, which is the whole oscillator: C's output drives the RATE pot into B's summing node, B ramps into C1, and when the ramp crosses C's threshold C flips and the ramp turns round. R2 against R5, 47K over 100K, sets how far the ramp gets before the flip - about ±4.9 V, which is why the triangle goes to its jack through nothing but a 1K. The square out of C is the chip's full swing, about ±10.5 V, so op-amp D scales it, 100K in and 47K back, to ±4.9 V and the right way up: high while the triangle rises. Op-amp A makes the sine: the triangle through 22K into two 1N4148s on ground comes out with its corners rounded to about ±0.6 V, and A gives it a gain of 7.8, 68K over 10K, so it lands at about ±4.7 V beside the others.

Two things about the shape of the board. The Schmitt's feedback resistor is the one part a quad op-amp will not let lie flat, because OUT, IN- and IN+ are three consecutive pins and the resistor wants two of them: so the trigger point is carried down to a strip of its own (TRIG, strip t) and both R2 and R5 land there. And the rails stop at column 5, so the four holes to their left on strips a to g are free strips - the sine jack sits on one of them, an inch from the op-amp that makes it.

The sine shaper is the least certain thing on this page. Where two diodes start to bend a triangle depends on how hard R10 drives them, and 22K is a starting value from the datasheet curves, not from a bench. Anything from 22K to 100K is worth trying with a scope on pin 1; the gain follows whatever R10 ends up at. R2 and R5 are not to be swapped: 47K on the triangle side and 100K back from the output is what makes the trigger window narrower than the swing, and the other way round it never starts.

The layout file is the guide

As on every stripboard guide here, the build document is the file itself: ↓ Download LFO_Rack.json - import it into Copper Bottom and the editor gives you the board picture, the placement walkthrough, the electrical checks and a printable build sheet, all from the same file. No coordinates are written out on this page on purpose: the editor is the viewer, and a number typed twice is a number that can drift.

The netlist

Quoted verbatim from the layout file. It was written from the board, so checking the board against it can only pass - what it is for is carrying the circuit somewhere else, and telling you what each strip is supposed to be doing while you stare at it. TRIG is the comparator's trigger point, where R2 and R5 meet; SINE_NODE is where the diodes live.

The off-board wiring

20 pads leave the board. Ten of them are the power header.

PadGoes to
SQ, RATE_WThe RATE pot. Lug 3 to SQ - the raw square, about ±10 V, which is a control signal here and not a jack - and the wiper to RATE_W. A variable resistor: lug 1 stays empty
TRI, RANGE_CThe RANGE toggle. TRI is the triangle itself, RANGE_C is C4's free leg; the switched wire carries the op-amp's output, not its summing node, so a panel wire here is harmless
TRI_JTriangle out, jack tip, through 1K. About ±5 V
SINE_JSine out, jack tip, through 1K. About ±4.7 V, and the number on this page least likely to survive the bench
SQ_JSquare out, jack tip, through 1K. About ±5 V, high while the triangle rises
LED_A, LED_KThe rate LED. It is driven from the scaled square through 1K, with a 1N4148 back to back across it so the negative half puts no more than a diode drop of reverse voltage on it
GND_PGround for the panel: the three jack sleeves. One pad, one wire, daisy-chain the rest
H1 … H10The power header, 2×5, pins down the strips. H1 and H2 are -12 V and take the cable's red stripe; H3 to H8 are ground; H9 and H10 are +12 V

The panel

8 HP, which is 40.6 mm of a 128.5 mm blank - Amplified Parts sells reversible black-and-aluminum blanks in every width from 2 to 20 HP. The template is drawn for 9 mm Alpha pots (7 mm holes), Thonkiconn jacks (6 mm), sub-mini toggles (6.5 mm) and 5 mm LEDs, with the rack's rails kept clear top and bottom and the four M3 mounting holes where Doepfer puts them. I/O along the bottom, controls above, as everything on this site does it.

Panel drill template, 1:1. Print at 100%, check the scale bar, tape it to the blank.
↓ lfo-rack-panel.pdf
Nobody has drilled this one yet - the holes are the module's pads, where they sit is the format applied to them.

The rack block, the same on every module

The top right of the board is the same idea as every module on this shelf. The 2×5 header takes the rack's power cable, mounted with its pins running down the strips so each pair of pins lands on one strip: -12 V, then three grounds, then +12 V. That is the only way it can go on stripboard - turned the other way, the -12 and ground pins would share copper. The red stripe on the cable goes to H1 and H2. A 1N5817 stands in series with each rail so a cable put on backwards does nothing instead of everything, and a 10 µF and a 100n sit on each rail. No regulator: there is no CMOS here, and a TL074 is happy on the rails as they come.

The IDC socket on the power cable overhangs the header by about two strips at each end. Nothing tall stands there - the generator that drew this refuses to put anything standing under the socket - so keep it that way if you move a part.

Check the cuts under the chip before the first power-up, with a meter. A DIP on stripboard puts pin 1 and the last pin on one strip, pin 2 and the one before it on the next, and so on down - each pair held apart by nothing but the chip's own cut. On a TL074 that puts pin 4 and pin 11 on the same strip, +12 a whisker of copper from -12. It is the normal shape of every stripboard op-amp build and it is fine when the cut is clean, but a cut that did not quite go through is a dead short across the supply with no resistor anywhere to survive it. Cut them, then measure each one.

How it works, in one breath

An LFO is two op-amps chasing each other: one ramps, the other decides when the ramp has gone far enough and sends it back, and the speed of the ramp is the rate. Everything else on this board is housekeeping - one stage to make the square the same size as the triangle, one to turn the triangle into something rounder. On a filter cutoff the three shapes are three different feelings: the triangle sweeps, the square jumps, the sine breathes.

Things to try

  • Change C1. 100nF puts the fast end up near audio; 4.7 µF makes it a tide. It sets the whole range
  • An inverted triangle. There is no op-amp left, but a second jack on the raw square through 10K and a 10K to ground gives a second, hotter square for free
  • A rate CV. A 100K from a jack into B's summing node beside the pot adds voltage control of the rate - crude, not exponential, but it works
  • Feed it back to the stripboard shelf. The triangle into the Dragonfly Rack's 1 V/oct input is a siren; into the Mixer Rack with audio, a tremolo

The core is the two-op-amp triangle-and-square oscillator in every op-amp book; the diode sine shaper is the classic one. The scaling stage and the layout are Onion Madder's, drawn in Copper Bottom, the same evening as the Utility LFO it comes from.