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UNVERIFIED - THIS LAYOUT. The circuit is built and working: the same circuit, ref for ref, is my Paper Termite, built in November 2026. This stripboard layout was laid out by script and checked in Copper Bottom, but nobody has soldered this board yet, and the voltages on this page are arithmetic. Build it once, fix whatever fought back, and this banner comes off.

Termite

A shift-register noise box · By Onion Madder · Mess O' Pedals

A noise box from two logic chips. A shift register passes bits along on every tick of a clock, and an XNOR gate feeds two of them back in, so the pattern repeats every 127 ticks. Slow, that is a chattering rhythm of clicks; fast, it turns into a buzz. PITCH sets the clock and there is a volume knob. Two chips on a 12 by 29 board.

It started as the Paper Termite, and on paper it is really cool: a really neat range, from clicks to a sort of machine buzz or whine. This is the same circuit for a box: every part has the same name on both boards. The power LED sits on the paper but hangs off this board on a wire, so it can go on the face of the box, with its resistor still on the copper.

The Termite drawn as a stripboard diagram, titled Termite, 29 by 12 stripboard. Twelve orange copper strips lettered a to l run left to right under 29 numbered columns. Two chips stand with their notches at the top: IC1, the 16-pin CD4015, on the left over strips b to i, and IC2, the 14-pin CD4077, to its right and one strip lower, over strips c to i. Under each chip two links are drawn dashed: under IC1 two diagonals, under IC2 two straight ones down its middle. Blue wire links join strips: a long one down the left edge from strip b to strip k, two short ones between the chips, three running down to the ground strip l, and two right of IC2. Left of IC1: the pink electrolytic C4 on strips c and d, and R3 on the slant from strip g to strip i. Between the chips: the green ceramic C2 from strip b to strip d. Right of IC2: D1 on the slant from strip a to strip b, R4 standing on strips b and c, the ceramic C3 on strips c and d, the ceramic C1 from strip g to strip j, R2 from strip e down to strip j, and R1 lying along strip h. Gray X marks show the cuts. The pads are labeled at the edges: OUT and OUT-G on the left; plus 9V, VCC, LED, PITCH-L, PITCH-W and GND on the right. Around the board the panel parts are drawn with a wire to every pad: the A100K volume pot and the output jack at the left; the power toggle, the power LED, the B500K pitch pot and the DC jack at the right. Below, the same board drawn from the solder side, mirrored, every solder point a dark dot and each chip as an outline with pin 1 boxed. A parts list and an OFF THE BOARD block, one line per panel part, run underneath.
The Termite, 12 strips by 29 holes. Copper Bottom draws the component side on top, then the same board from the solder side with the columns running the other way, so a cut is the same hole in both pictures. The panel parts sit around the board with a wire to every pad, and the OFF THE BOARD block at the bottom says where each leg goes.

What you'll need

tap to expand / collapse

Nine parts on the board plus the two chips and eleven links, and six off it.

  • 1× CD4015 dual 4-stage shift register, DIP-16 (IC1) - spot it: sixteen legs, 4015 printed on top, a notch or a dot at the pin 1 end. It sits on the left. Pins 3, 4, 5, 12 and 13 are outputs this build does not use, and stay empty on purpose
  • 1× CD4077 quad XNOR, DIP-14 (IC2) - spot it: fourteen legs, 4077 printed on top. A 4070 is XOR, not XNOR, and will not do: check the print. It sits on the right, one strip lower. Both chips solder straight to the board
  • 1× 2.2K resistor (R4) - spot it: bands red-red-red. It feeds the power LED, which is off the board, and stands up near the top right
  • 1× 10K resistor (R1) - spot it: bands brown-black-orange. In series with the pitch pot; it lies along strip h
  • 1× 100K resistor (R3) - spot it: bands brown-black-yellow. Half of the power-on reset; it lies on the slant left of IC1
  • 1× 1M resistor (R2) - spot it: bands brown-black-green. Part of the clock; it lies from strip e down to strip j
  • 3× ceramic caps - spot it: a small disc or blob with a three-digit code. C1 is 1 nF (102) and sets the clock's range; C2 and C3 are 0.1 µF (104). C2 is the other half of the power-on reset, C3 sits across the supply beside IC2
  • 1× 10 µF electrolytic (C4) - spot it: a small can with a stripe down one side; the stripe leg is the negative one. It is the output cap, stripe down on strip d, toward OUT
  • 1× 1N5817 Schottky (D1) - spot it: fat black body, a gray band at one end. Reverse-polarity protection on the supply; it lies on the slant from strip a to strip b, band on strip b
  • 11× wire links - offcuts of component leg. Four of them, J1 and J2 under IC1 and J7 and J9 under IC2, run under a chip's body, so they go in before the chips do. J1 and J2 are diagonals: use insulated hookup wire for those two

Off the board

  • 1× B500K linear pot - pitch, two lugs. Wiper to PITCH-W, lug 3 to PITCH-L. Lug 1 stays empty
  • 1× A100K log pot - volume. Lug 3 to OUT, lug 1 to OUT-G, wiper to the output jack tip
  • 1× 1/4 inch jack - the output. Tip to the volume wiper, sleeve to OUT-G
  • 1× LED - the power light. Long leg to LED, short leg to GND. R4 on the board sets its current
  • 1× DC jack, 9 V center negative
  • An SPST toggle for power, in the positive supply lead between the DC jack and the board's +9V pad. Every build on this shelf gets one, and the drawing above shows it

The layout file is the guide

Like every layout on this shelf, the build document for this one is the file itself: ↓ Download Termite.json - import it into Copper Bottom and the editor gives you the board picture, the placement walkthrough, the electrical checks and a printable build sheet, all from the same file. No coordinates are written out on this page on purpose: the editor is the viewer, and a number typed twice is a number that can drift.

J1, J2, J7 and J9 run under the chips, so solder them before the chips go in. Under IC1, J1 takes the reset from pin 14 across to pin 6, and J2 takes the loop from pin 11 across to pin 7, passing between pins 10 and 11 on its way. Under IC2, J7 joins pins 11 and 9, the clock's first gate, and J9 joins the ground strips at pins 2 and 13 to the one at pins 7 and 8.

Copper Bottom reports this one clean. The VCC pad is a test point for a meter, there so the checker knows that strip is the supply; nothing is wired to it.

The netlist

My script wrote this from the design and the board was checked against it in Copper Bottom: every connection it names is on the board and nothing on the board is missing from it. The same script checks every net against the Paper Termite's, both ways, so the two boards are one circuit. CLK is the clock, N1 and OSC the clock's two gates, JUNC the point where its timing parts meet, FB the XNOR fed back into the second register, Q3B and Q4A the two stages it feeds back from, and QOUT the sound. The empty pins are not listed.

The off-board wiring

Seven pads leave the board, and one of them, VCC, is only a test point: the pitch pot, the output and its ground, the LED, and the supply.

PadGoes to
PITCH-W / PITCH-LThe pitch pot's wiper and lug 3. Lug 1 stays empty. If it runs backwards, move the PITCH-L wire to lug 1
OUTVolume pot lug 3. The wiper goes to the output jack tip, and lug 1 to OUT-G
OUT-GVolume pot lug 1 and the output jack sleeve. Same net as GND
LEDThe power LED's long leg; its short leg to GND
+9V / GNDThe supply, through the power toggle. DC jack positive to the toggle and the toggle to +9V; negative to GND
VCCNothing. A test point: the supply after D1

Before you play

Turn the volume down and switch it on: the power LED should light. Then meter to ground. These numbers are the datasheets and arithmetic, not off a built board.

MeterExpect
The VCC pad, IC1 pin 16, IC2 pin 14The supply minus about 0.3 V, the drop across D1
IC1 pin 6Zero, once the power has been on for a moment
IC2 pin 10About half the supply: a meter reads a running clock that way. Zero or the full supply means the clock is stopped
IC1 pin 2Somewhere near half, and wandering

If it plays one steady click or tone that never changes pattern, the register is stuck: power off, wait a few seconds and power on. If it sticks again, meter IC1 pin 6, which should be zero, and look at R3, C2 and J1.

How it works, in one breath

Two of IC2's XNOR gates, each with one input grounded so it acts as an inverter, make the clock with C1, R1, R2 and the PITCH pot. By arithmetic it runs from about 900 Hz to about 45 kHz across the knob. IC1 is two four-stage shift registers clocked together. The third stage of the second one goes back into the first one's data input, and another of IC2's gates, the XNOR of that stage and the first register's fourth, goes into the second one's, so the bits run round a loop of seven stages that comes back to where it started every 127 ticks.

The sound is the last stage, IC1 pin 2, through C4 to the volume pot. The one pattern that never moves is all ones, so C2 and R3 hold both resets high for a moment at power-on and the loop always starts from zeros.

Things to try

None of these have been tried on this board, and none on the paper one either.

  • A photocell for the pitch pot. An LDR across PITCH-L and PITCH-W, the way I ran the Hive Drone, and the noise follows your hand
  • Slower. C1 at 10 nF (103) moves the whole range down by ten, so the bottom of the knob is a slow, clicky sequence
  • Into a ring mod. The Termite on one input and an oscillator on the other, through the XOR Ring Mod

A shift register with XOR feedback is the classic way to make noise from logic chips, and the two-gate RC clock is out of every CMOS cookbook. The layout and the words are mine, and so is anything wrong with them.